So many things happen here and time goes so fast that sometimes its difficult to keep up and catch up with everything thats going on, which in a strange way, it's not much.
The waves have been a mixture of super small, flat, windy, glassy and super big.
For a couple of days at Sunset, we had waves with sets around 3 meters easy. It was so big and heavy. Guys were going out with massive boards, anything from 7' to 10' and crazy guys like Kala whow went out on his paddle board. Must say that his session didn't end up too good as he pulled into a barrel and snapped his Epoxy wooden SUP......... It happens to all the best I guess :)
Pipe Masters opening day was pretty amazing but also pretty strange, the waves were huge all over the NS in places like Pups, Off the Wall, Rock Piles....and Pipe...well I would say it was half the size....so strange..... It was hard for the surfers to know where to go for their heats and they even made Gums part of the competition area :) Most of the waves were at Back Door. It was fun to watch but so far that was the only day we have had with waves good enough for the contest.
Otherwise here, we have been surfing all around catching the best waves depending on swell, wind etc. just because there are a couple of well known spots, it doesn't mean you can not travel around and find waves just as good or better and sometimes ( but doesn't happen often ) with no crowd.
As for boards, Luis has already snapped 2 boards but luckily everybody is safe and there are no injuries.
Looks like we will have no big swell as far as we can see, until December 17th so it's a good job Luis has new small boards coming :)
Hopefully the contest will be back on again soon and so will the waves :)
Will keep you posted
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